Altona

Altona was an independent city until 1937, and it still behaves like one. Under Danish rule for centuries, it grew up as Hamburg's competitor rather than its suburb, and it kept its own main railway station, its own downtown and a distinctly separate identity west of the city proper. The Altonaer Balkon, a terrace park on the bluff above the river, delivers what is probably the most spectacular harbor view in Hamburg, straight out over the docks, the cranes and the shipping lanes. Below it, on the waterfront, the Fischauktionshalle, the historic fish auction hall, hosts the Sunday morning ritual of the Fischmarkt, with live bands playing under the iron roof from dawn onward. The Palmaille is Altona's grandest street, a broad tree-lined avenue of classical facades running along the ridge, a reminder of how much money once moved through this port town. The station itself is a transit hub and the gateway to Ottensen next door. Where to stay: a good compromise base, calmer and generally cheaper than downtown but with fast S-Bahn links to the Landungsbrücken, the Reeperbahn and the main station, plus the Elbe waterfront and Ottensen's restaurants on foot. Getting there: Bahnhof Altona is served by the S1, S2, S3, S11 and S31 as well as regional and long-distance trains. For the fish market end of the district, S1 or S3 to Königstraße or Reeperbahn puts you closest to the auction hall.